Forums › Kitchen DIY Forum › Kitchen DIY Advice › Bowed worktop
This topic has 2 voices, contains 5 replies.
| Author | Posts |
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| Author | Posts |
| August 11, 2004 at 3:14 am #5517 | |
|
JonS |
Hi, Just realized that there’s warp of about 10 mm per 6ft length of my worktops (sag in the middle). I’ve already cut the mitre for a 90 degree joint. Is the following a viable solution ?.. Get base units completely level, politically correct etc. Lay worktops on units (support if necessary) so as to be able to ‘silicone’ and tighten joint perfectly, but don’t screw down. Let cure for 24 hrs. Adjust slopes to taste Or anything better? Jon |
| August 11, 2004 at 8:16 pm #5518 | |
|
timfoley |
Sounds as if the tops were stored incorrectly. Worktops should be laid flat to keep their shape. I’d be inclined to change the worktops if they are so out of level. It is acceptable to have a 1 – 2mm difference in the same length but 10mm over 1.8m is unacceptable. If you do wish to attempt a recovery operation then your suggestion sounds viable but without the expanding foam. If you intend tiling above the slope would be noticable and unsightly. Can you clarify the type of worktop ie, wood, laminate, also the manufacturer? |
| August 11, 2004 at 10:53 pm #5519 | |
|
JonS |
Ok, I’ve exagerated the bend a bit. Re-measuring, it’s about 2.5mm over 4 ft. which works out as 3.75mm over 6 ft. Still not good, eh? Sorry, I should have said it’s the usual laminated chipboard (Wickes). This is for my elderly mother, and she’s not that fussed about cosmetics. But how do I deal with the gap between worktop and top of units, if not foam? I want that filled somehow. Jon |
| August 13, 2004 at 8:58 am #5520 | |
|
timfoley |
Then you could try making the joint with silicone and leave overnight as you suggested. close the gap. Let us know how you go on Jon. |
| October 16, 2004 at 11:35 pm #5622 | |
|
JonS |
This is how it turned out… I did try straightening the worktops by laying them between two pieces of wood with a weight in the middle sufficient to make them straight. I didn’t want to risk over bending ’cause I thought the laminate my spring off or.. something. Anyway, it didn’t seem to make much difference to the bowing. The bow was probably about 7mm over 6ft as my final estimate! The brackets that came with the units were too flimsy so I used three heavy brackets with thicker, longer screws on each end of the units. Trouble was, the top of the front, top, horizontal member on these Wickes units wasn’t flush with the tops of the gables (about 3mm lower), and that allowed the worktop to still bow down in the middle. I only realized this when I came to make the joint. The female joint slanted upwards as it approached the wall for about the last 6 “. The result is that at about 6″ away from the wall, the top of the female joint goes from being perfectly flat (i.e. in line with the male) to rising about 1mm above the male joint at the wall. Still, it looks better than a strip, and you can’t so much as see it as feel it. An observation, though, is that with this black/grey marble effect laminate, it’s impossible to get an ‘invisible joint’ anyway because the pattern is so obviously interrupted – the display one in Wickes Jon |
| October 17, 2004 at 10:35 pm #5623 | |
|
timfoley |
One way of compensating for the lack of support in the centre of the unit would have been to install a centre leg in line with the existing legs. This in turn would have empowered you to raise the worktop through the centre post. As for the attempt to create a barely visible joint, it is interesting that you raise the point regarding patterns and it’s certainly worth pointing out that some tops offer you much greater chance of success than others by their style and colour. Laminate woodgrain tops being the most obviously unsuccessful by the opposite grain directions at a joint, never ceased to frustrate me. Anyway Jon, thanks for sharing the outcome. |
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