Forums › Kitchen DIY Forum › Kitchen DIY Advice › Building regs Part P
This topic has 4 voices, contains 26 replies.
| Author | Posts |
|---|---|
| Author | Posts |
| February 1, 2005 at 3:09 pm #5752 | |
|
nspark |
I am soon to fit my own kitchen. I have been “picking” the brains of my kitchen supplier for kitchen fitting tips. I have since found this forum which is of great use. cooker control switches must be fitted above the worktop. Sockets should be fitted at least 150mm above the worktop surface to prevent damage to cables. |
| February 1, 2005 at 10:59 pm #5753 | |
|
timfoley |
Thank you nspark. Can you highlight which paragraph this is detailed in? The alternative, if this is the case, is to employ the use of fused isolation switches above the worktop to feed each applaince via a flush mounted connection unit at the rear of the appliance. Failing this, a large cut out in the rear of the cabinet that would in essence defeat one of the objects of solid backs – preventing access for bugs etc. As for sockets 150mm above worktops, I have always used this height as the optimum and fully agree with this. What’s your opinion on this nspark? |
| February 2, 2005 at 8:12 pm #5756 | |
|
woody |
Hi nspark I too would like to know where you have got this information. As far as I am aware the only Building Reg that effects the height of sockets is Part M and this does not refer to kitchens. I use the 150mm rule when installing sockets above a work surface but that’s a rule of thumb not a regulation. It does seem a common misconception that the electrical installation regulations have changed since the implementation of Part P but they have not. BS7671 (16th Edition) was last amended in April 04. It was ok to install a socket in a unit then so it is ok to install them in a unit now. Cheers Woody |
| February 2, 2005 at 11:10 pm #5757 | |
|
nspark |
Sorry to everybody for stating something without giving a reference for where the information came from. bathrooms and kitchens a special location. http://www.iee.org/publish/wireregs/Par … mn2004.pdf If you use the above link, it is a download, but it is ok. Page 12 of the document covers good practice in Kitchens, section H on page 13 covers sockets under worktops. Plastic surface mounting boxes 47mm deep are available. of the base unit, which could be made good around the box , the socket would appear inside the base unit. A piece of timber could be fitted to the wall and then mount the plastic backbox onto it , to bring the socket further from the wall. |
| February 3, 2005 at 12:28 am #5758 | |
|
woody |
Hi nspark Thanks for the info. Read the link. The article refers to ‘good practice’ of an electrical kitchen installation. It is not a requirement of Document Part P. although the IEE might desire sockets fitted to the building structure, for now, there is nothing wrong with fitting a socket into a base/wall unit. The NICEIC accept it (As long as the installation meets the requirements of BS7671). When I install a socket in a base unit I’ll use truncking to bring the socket to the front of the unit, much more accessible than a socket fixed to the wall. I install cooker/hob switches the same. I would consider a cooker/hob switch more a service switch than an emergency switch, but it must be fitted within 2m of the appliance. Little consideration has been given to integrated appliances in the article. There is not much difference between fitting a socket into a cupboard and your suggestion of using batten to bring the socket off the wall. A useful article though. Cheers Lee |
| February 3, 2005 at 1:13 am #5759 | |
|
timfoley |
Woody, Nspark, To obtain absolute clarification on this issue, which will have implications for all installers I am inviting the IEE to respond to the points raised in this post. The anomaly is, having read the document which as Woody states, is not regulatory, yet, the document details a minimum of 5cm above the worktop as the minimum height requirement for sockets and to me this flies in the face of good practice considering the extra strain it may place on appliance flexes. Regarding socket location, the guide recommends fixing to the building structure only in reference to washing machines and tumble dryers which is a fair point as accessibility to these requires greater frequency on the part of the user. The document also recommends that cooker controls are to be located cooker point is a necessity. My interpretation is that socket location for fridges, single ovens, microwaves, freezers and dishwashers, hob ignitions are not affected by location in a cupboard but I stand to be corrected from a higher authority. Thanks for the contributions so far guys on this interesting and important post and I look forward to hearing your opinions when the reponse is published. |
| February 3, 2005 at 4:19 pm #5760 | |
|
nspark |
Hi |
| February 3, 2005 at 6:36 pm #5761 | |
|
woody |
Hi nspark Best practice as an electrician? Or best practice as a kitchen installer? Spoke to the NICEIC today. Confirmed what I have already said. As an NICEIC approved contractor, I would never install a socket that contravenes the 16th. If there were to be an incident the 16th would be used as the point of reference not ‘best practice‘. Cheers woody |
| February 3, 2005 at 8:57 pm #5762 | |
|
nspark |
Woody reply will give a reason why. |
| February 3, 2005 at 10:03 pm #5763 | |
|
woody |
Hi nspark I apologise if you feel my posts have been personal. They have not meant to be. Let’s keep things friendly. woody |
| February 3, 2005 at 10:50 pm #5764 | |
|
nspark |
Ok Woody |
| February 4, 2005 at 12:24 am #5765 | |
|
timfoley |
Thought I may have had to step in as peacemaker there for a minute boys. Glad you have found some conflict resolution with added smileys. Still it’s good to know that the subject stirs up a passion to say your piece and if it allows us to achieve clarification from the law makers then we’ve achieved a goal. That’s providing they answer and just to update here is a copy of what I forwarded to them. Someone wrote: Whilst we applaud the introduction of Part P relating to a greater emphasis of electrical safety in the kitchen, a number of confusing issues have been highlighted Watch this space! |
| February 4, 2005 at 11:02 pm #5766 | |
|
nspark |
Hi answer. stand. |
| February 4, 2005 at 11:35 pm #5767 | |
|
woody |
Hi nspark I’m curious, are you an electrician? If not, what is your trade/profession? |
| February 5, 2005 at 12:22 am #5768 | |
|
woody |
Hello again The ‘wood’ that you refer too is the old wooden mounting boxes they used to use. They no longer meet the meet today’s standards. A socket installed in truncking and a plastic/metal mounting box would not come into contact with any flammable material. Why a fire risk? There shouldn’t be any sparks flying around. Consider the B&Q style garden shed, are you allowed to install electrics in them? Yes you are. So why not a kitchen? The idea of installing to BS7671 is that if a fault at a socket did occur it would disconnect in time to prevent the risk of fire, injury or death. Part P applies to most domestic work contracted out after 1 Jan 2005. Any work contracted out pre 1 Jan must be completed before March 31 2005. Otherwise part p applies. As a City & Guilds electrician familiar with BS7671 (IEE 16th Edition) qualified to inspect & test electrical installations -commercial, industrial & domestic. I feel that I am able to make an informed decision of how and where I install a socket. Cheers woody |
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.







