Anonymous
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Hi,
I am doing a complete kitchen install myself as part of my renovation and I had a few questions I hope someone can answer!
In Tims’ excellent guide he says :- “When fitting integrated appliances you will need to leave a space between cabinets. Using a straight length of wood or plinth, clamp flush to
the already levelled cabinets and use this as a guide for fitting the next cabinet making sure you leave the correct space between the units and this applies to both the front and the
back.”
I’m just wondering if that applies to free standing appliances instead of integrated appliances?
Also, is it necessary to put a spacer in between a tall cabinet and a side wall if the hinged side is beside the wall, or will there be enough space to allow the door to open without
a spacer.
Normally I would just try it and see, but I have to build the wall before plastering, which is before the cabinets and doors arrive on site :/
Cheers, Des.
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DesG
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Oh, and I should have logged in first too, whoops 
Cheers, Des.
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timfoley
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Des,
Thanks for the kind words. I hope it is proving helpful in your efforts to install your kitchen. It’s great to hear from you and others that you find the articles very useful and I
am working on the latest article – ‘Finishing touches’ which will include reference on how best to maintain the look of your kitchen, how to adjust doors/drawers and fitting cornice
/ pelmet.
With regard to your query, the reason for straight edge alignment is to ensure your applince will fit neatly and to maintain the correct worktop overhang.
Of course, the overhang is less important when a freestanding appliance splits the run of units but it makes for easier installation if the units are parallel. Being parallael will
ensure the distance at both front and back are equal and your appliance will fit the aperture.
It may be necessary to deviate slightly because all walls are not flat and may run at an angle but the margin criteria should be no greater than 2/3mm. If this is the case it is
important to ensure the appliance size can be accomodated in either the front or rear measurements of the opening whichever is the lesser size.
For example, if your wall runs out at an angle to the right side of the appliance, the space, although different sizes at front and back, must not be less than the appliance.
A good tip is to cut two pieces to the same length as the opening required and screw two scrap pieces with an overhang of 40-50mm at each end.
Use these front and back of the opening before fixing the cabinets.
You will then be certain of it fitting correctly. Don’t forget to make allowance for worktop overhang adjacent the appliance when using this method for freestanding appliances
though.
Keep us updated with your progress Des and welcome to the forum.
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DesG
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timfoley wrote:
Des,
Thanks for the kind words. I hope it is proving helpful in your efforts to install your kitchen. It’s great to hear from you and others that you find the articles very useful and I
am working on the latest article – ‘Finishing touches’ which will include reference on how best to maintain the look of your kitchen, how to adjust doors/drawers and fitting cornice
/ pelmet.
Hi Tim, I look forward to your new article! The current guides are very informative and impartial!
timfoley wrote:
With regard to your query, the reason for straight edge alignment is to ensure your applince will fit neatly and to maintain the correct worktop overhang.
Of course, the overhang is less important when a freestanding appliance splits the run of units but it makes for easier installation if the units are parallel. Being parallael will
ensure the distance at both front and back are equal and your appliance will fit the aperture.
Ah, I had assumed that the definition of an integrated appliance was that it fitted inside a carcass hence my query as to why you would treat that carcass any different to others. Too
many terms loosely defined
Cheers, Des.
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timfoley
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Sorry Des,
In my haste to answer your other query I completely forgot the filler question.
Four reasons why I would always opt for installing a filler in place of fitting close to the wall.
1. Most walls are out of vertical plumb unless newly plasterered and even then there is no guarantee it is even and plumb. Visually, this would impair the look of the cabinet.
2. Decoration would prove more difficult and decorating filler would have to be applied to the carcass before the doors are fitted. Not very welcome if you have installed an
integrated fridge and have to renove the doors in order to decorate.
3. Hinges are designed to open more than 90 degrees and fitting so close to a wall would not allow you this.
4. Handles, dependent on the style used, could decrease this angle substantially.
For these reasons I would always opt for installing a filler piece.
Hope this helps you Des.
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lkj
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Tim,
is there any chance of you doing a few pics/diagrams to illustrate typical details. For example, this business with the spacers/spacing has me a little confused.
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