CJSalway
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I realise this may be a strange request, but it follows on from earlier post about having insufficient gap to fit integrated appliances.
We have booked a pumber for next tuesday who is going to move the pipework and/or fix any services tight against the wall and also fit the sink and worktop at the same time.
I’m keen to invest in a router/jig to fix the 2 worktop joints, but buying one/practicing cuts etc will take more than a few days, by which time I will have a full 10ft length of worktop attached to the sink unit and skimming nicely over the washer/dryer and dishwasher. I then want to get straight on with building the other bits of the kitchen that have to involve plumbers and electricians (eg wiring in double oven, fitting gas hob) and then return to the worktop joints at the end of the project to finish the breakfast bar which runs to the right of the sink area (in theory by then having mastered the business of routing).
Will it be possible to make the rout joints at this point with the worktop attached to the sink by unhooking the plumbing and pulling the worktop/sink assembly away from the wall a couple of feet, or will I have to totally dismantle the sink worktop to do the rout joints? (ie will I have to ‘flip’ the big worktop piece at any stage during the routing?)
There will be about 800mm of worktop to play with to the right of the sink and the end of this piece will require a female joint, then a male/male routed breakfast bar comes in at 90degrees, finished off with a female routed short length of worktop running the wall.
regards,
Colin
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CJSalway
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the end of the worktop attached to the sink is a male rout, then the breakfast bar is female/female, followed by a short male worktop piece running the wall (all of which could be flipped with ease)
regards,
Colin
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timfoley
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Colin,
The best advivce I can offer is to undertake the worktop installation in one hit, start to finish and if you plan on doing this yourself at a later stage then it’s probably best to either replicate the cut out and depth of top by using a temporary worktop, a length of 18mm MDF Board would suffice, so that the plumbber can at least undertake the work using flexible tap connectors or by fitting a draw off point in the rear of your sink base cabinet so that you can at least fill a kettle before final fitting.
Doing things in the order you suggest will only leave the exposed joint vulnerable to damage and water ingress and you would have to remove the sink from the top before having the ability to move it out sufficiently enough to use the router on it.
Tim
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