crawfordlfc
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when jointing my
butt & scribe i use colourfil (& 3bolts) but i was told that
silicone or pva glue is just as good if not better in some cases especially
where joint is close to the sink. what are anyones thoughts on this
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thekitchenfitter.com
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Hi crawfordlfc
I myself use evostick waterproof p.v.a I find that this gives you a longer time to get the 2 tops flush and even. I have tried coulorfill in the past but I think
it goes off to quick and because of its thick consistency it can actually keep the joint apart. If you rub colourfill in to the joint after you have tightened the connector bolts and
cleaned of all the access glue, it just gives you that “seamless ” look especially on black tops, and I always leave the tube with the customer so they can do the same in years to
come !
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crawfordlfc
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thanxs for quick reply i’ll try this method on my next joint.
just as a matter
of interest do you brush glue on both male & female edges of your joints
as i do now with colourfil many thanxs ian
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thekitchenfitter.com
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Hi Ian
I just usually put the glue on one side but i use plenty of the stuff ,some people argue that this is a wase of money because most of it squeezes out under pressure anyway,
but it gives me piece of mind !
Paul
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timfoley
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I fully agree with Paul here regarding Colorfill and it can tend to give
you little time to even out the joints resulting in sometimes keeping them apart.
My own preference when making a joint is to use silicone sealant and if applied in a near to matching colour as possible it will result in a closed and inconspicuous joint.
Colorfill never formed part of my toolkit but I respect the difference for other fitters who consider it a good finishing product.
As for waterproof PVA I have never used it for worktop joints but can appreciate it can act as an alternative to silicone.
The best example of how good it performs as a barrier and adhesive is the test of time and it would be interesting to hear examples of it’s durability in this respect from those who
use it.
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timfoley
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As an addition to this thread I’d just like to state that when
fitting solid wood worktops it is better to use silicone sealant as pva may invalidate the guarantee with your supplier.
The reason for this is the tolerance for movement to occur which is advised by the manufacturers. The flexibility of silicone when set will allow this.
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crawfordlfc
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on the subject of solid wood worktops i try to avoid the use of PVA
as i found it tends to stain i use either danish oil or something similar i
find 3 coats of this when oiling the the tops up(both top & underneath)
and then a bead of silicon on the joint
ian
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timfoley
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Just as a follow up to this post I have to say that recent conversations have confirmed my long held belief
that Colorfill does not effectively seal a worktop joint and I still believe that silicone sealant has no substitute for
providing a watertight joint.
Having more of a history than when it was first introduced, has resulted in a number of
worktop replacements due to blown(Water ingressed) worktop joints and I have recently heard of one large company who prevent
their installers from using it.
My opinion also stretches to wood glue which again I believe does not prevent water ingress
in a worktop.
I expect there will be a number of those disagreeing with me here and it would be good to hear other
opinions.
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Jonesy
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Hi
Any opinions on the use of colourfil on worktop joints near sinks?
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timfoley
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Jonesy,
The word that springs to mind immediately is “avoid”
Tim
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