Cooker Hood swap for Chimney Hood Problems

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September 10, 2008 at 11:01 am #6879

BlueDan

Okay last post for a while I promise!

brand New house, rubbishy extractor over the hob, which I want to swap for a S/S chimney.

Currently there is an integrated pull out type with a matching door on the face, and I am taking this out and putting in a chimney hood. The problem is:

1. There are wires that run along the top of the units, which are the pelmet lighting, so these bridge the gap between the units to the left of the cooker and to the right of the cooker. How do I "get rid" of these, as they will be seen when I put in the chimney hood?? Only way I can think of is to channel out the wall and bury them? Or alternatively (less preferable) put in a board between the two adjacent wall units, with a cut out for the chimney portion, and run wires across the top.

2. There is a 3-pin plug socket on the wall above the cupboards, with the current extractor in place you can’t see it, but with a new chimney style hood, the electrical connection needs to be inside the chimney, because there is no way of getting the wire "outside" the chimney. Shall I convert this 3 pin plug socket into a switched fused socket, and run a spur behind the chimney, and then wire into this new spur, or can I just try and move the 3 pin socket to a position behind the chimney. I don’t really want to be able to see any sockets etc when finished.

3. The large hole to vent the fumes outside has already been put in, does the height of this hole make any difference, when I put in the new chimney hood?

I understand its a big post, but appreciate the advice, thanks
September 10, 2008 at 12:33 pm #6880

timfoley

BlueDan,
For the wiring, yes, channel out, use protective cable capping and plaster over.
The best means of feeding the extractor is to installa fused spur in a convenient and accessible position, possibly above the worksurface and level with existing sockets, this in turn will feed a socket which can be unswitched and located behind the chimney flue.
The hole position is important and should be located centrally within the chimney flue at a position high enough above the extractor outlet sufficient enough to allow the flexible ducting to exit the wall without restricting the performance, that is to say, allow a gradual rather than tight bend.
Important also to emphasise here, that the electrical work detailed above must be compliant with current regulations and carried out by an approved electrician,

Tim
September 10, 2008 at 1:02 pm #6887

BlueDan

Oh, so I can’t do it myself then?

Kitchen is all but finished, so I can’t easily put in a new socket level with all the other sockets. What else could I do? Could I make the 3-pin a switched fuse, and then run a cable behind the chimney flue and put a socket in there?

I am just praying now that the hole is "in Line" with where the chimney flue will be!!
September 10, 2008 at 1:26 pm #6889

timfoley

Not unless you’re competent to do so Dan.
Take a look at the following http://www.dchdirect.co.uk/content.php/15320
No reason why you can’t leave the existing socket above the cupboards and change the face to a fused spur feeding the extractor.

Tim
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