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Available in a wide choice of colours and finishes including leather.
Compac Worktops
View the trendsetting colour range from Quartz Compac.
Caesarstone Worktops
Great colours also available in a thinner style 13mm from Caesarstone the original quartz.
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Available to UK buyers for many years and this popular range is now available at TFI.
Corian Worktops
For the best seamless surface available to buyers worldwide choose Corian.
Sensa Granite Worktops
Granite Worktops that can also be installed outside and arrive with a 15 year anti-stain warranty.
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Forums › Kitchen DIY Forum › Kitchen DIY Advice › cutting worktops with jig/router
This topic has 2 voices, contains 5 replies.
| Author | Posts |
|---|---|
| Author | Posts |
| January 28, 2005 at 9:04 pm #5740 | |
|
stevenw80 |
Is there a way to avoid the inevitable splintering of the laminate when cutting into the worktop? I am using a 1650w router with a trend 1/2″ straight cutter as recommended with the trend jig. |
| January 29, 2005 at 2:26 am #5741 | |
|
timfoley |
Ensure the router blade is sharp. The less depth you remove with each pass, the less effort the blade will use and the less strain the machine will undergo so I advise that you cut the worktop with more passes than advised, perhaps five. Apply masking tape to the joint area laminate before cutting and ensure it adheres well. Let us know how you go on with this. Tim |
| January 29, 2005 at 8:51 am #5743 | |
|
stevenw80 |
Tim, thanks for the help. Since posting the question I have read your peice on kitchen fitting with regards to the worktops and realised that when it came to cutting the angles on a right hand corner I had not turned the worktop upside down. The cutter is brand new so I hope it is sharp enough. I am just glad that this happened at home and have since sorted it out as I have two customers waiting for kitchens to be fitted and that really would not have looked good would it? One other problem I did come across was lining the two peices up height wise. I used three size 20 biscuits cut at the same depth but although I expected these to lock the two together at exactly the same level there was still a bit of lip. I ended up having to press down on one side whilst tightening the bolts just to get it somewhere near……..any tips would be greatly appreciated. thanks again |
| January 30, 2005 at 12:11 am #5744 | |
|
timfoley |
I would suggest you forsake the biscuits and just utilise the bolts. Whilst tightening try to ensure they are as level as possible, (easier if you have an assisstant checking and tapping in place), but at this stage don’t worry too much about height discrepencies. When tight and no further silicone appears to ooze out of the joint, use a small block of scrap wood (100mm x 200mm mfc), and tap with a hammer until level. Once left to cure overnight the tops will remain level. |
| January 30, 2005 at 2:12 pm #5745 | |
|
stevenw80 |
Thanks again for all of the advice, I will let you know how I get on this time. |
| February 15, 2005 at 10:10 pm #5794 | |
|
stevenw80 |
Tim, Just an update on this installation. It has all fitted in very well. The worktops look fantastic I must say. It has however put me off flat pack kitchens purely on the finished product. Not at all impressed but as the saying goes…you get exactly what you pay for! |
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