fitting hardwood kitchen worktops for belfast sink, etc

Rich,

When trying to match the

profile of a wall and as it will rarely be a straight cut, you are better using a jigsaw with masking tape to protect the

surface. The most difficult

configuration to fit a worksurface is between two walls and particularly if they are out

of square. The trick here is to judge how much they run out of square before transferring your

findings to the

worktop. A method I used was to place a right angled board or shelf over the unit ensuring it’s overhang remained equal over

the cabinet front. The depth of the board

would simulate the depth of the worktop. You can then judge the cut to make

by transferring the measurements between the wall at two or three points depending on it’s profile. Repeat

the

process at the other end and take between wall measurements. Transfer this to the worktop not forgetting to deduct 2/3mm for

ease of fitting. A complicated method but one that

works well.

As for the belfast sink cut-out, you should use

a router to ensure a professional finish. The bulk of the cut-out should be made with a circular or jigsaw leaving 5-10mm to

remove

with the router using a guide clamped to the worktop. A capillary groove should be cut to the underside of the

worktop where it overhangs the sink to ensure that water damage doesn’t

occur.

Good luck.

Rich, you’re a brave man taking on the role of a fabricator

as

well as a fitter for this project but if you are confident using the tools then good luck and keep us posted. There is no

substitute for trial runs and you should first practice

the methods using your old worktop perhaps.

The groove

should be formed with a router, be concave in shape and approximately 5mm x 5mm. The overhang should extend 15mm beyond the

internal edge of the sink and the capillary

groove should end within this area so if made 5-7mm from the edge of the

cut-out this will suffice. The rest of your suggestions seem fine apart from the use of white silicone and

here I

would suggest you use a transparent finish applied as a thin bead that you can neatly smooth with your fingertip.

The

question of making drainer grooves has popped up before on this forum and a search on the forum using the term “drainer

grooves” will assist with the correct method to use. I

suspect a jig or template board will be the answer.

As

for me coming out to do it Rich, I would happily assist but alas my days of fitting are now confined to the written word, and

anyway, my fabricating skills would stretch only to

covering up my failure to turn up on time with classics like

“Sorry but the car ran out of juice on the way here and at the same time my mobile phone broke and I couldn’t call

because it was in the middle of nowhere and …………….”

I guess you know the craic.

Good

luck.

Tim.