August 27, 2005 at 7:45 am #6010
I have bitten the bullet and purchased two blank 28mm rubberwood worktops that are 720mm deep 28mm
thick and 3m and 4m long.
The 3m length is two be cut into 2 lengths of 1.1m each to fit between the aga range and wall
on each side of the aga ie require cutting to length and depth from 720mm down to approx
The 4m length
is to fit between two walls and trimmed to 3.2m length and 680mm depth from 720mm.
A belfast sink hole/slot is required
in the 4m length with the worktop overhanging the belfast sink on the three sides. I am wondering the best way and tools to
cut the worktops at
the three edges which butt the wall and how to cut out the slot for the belfast
Surely a jig saw is not accurate enough, perhaps a circular saw but what spec is required for a good finish or a
circular saw finished with a router that can leave some form of bevel
on the edge. The front edge of the worktop also
needs finishing with a bevel or something.
I have been searching for help on the net but nowhere is a hole/slot in
hardwood worktop for belfast sink mentioned, Your site seems to be the best so hence the question.
rick blakeAugust 28, 2005 at 11:33 am #6011
When trying to match the
profile of a wall and as it will rarely be a straight cut, you are better using a jigsaw with masking tape to protect the
surface. The most difficult
configuration to fit a worksurface is between two walls and particularly if they are out
of square. The trick here is to judge how much they run out of square before transferring your
findings to the
worktop. A method I used was to place a right angled board or shelf over the unit ensuring it’s overhang remained equal over
the cabinet front. The depth of the board
would simulate the depth of the worktop. You can then judge the cut to make
by transferring the measurements between the wall at two or three points depending on it’s profile. Repeat
process at the other end and take between wall measurements. Transfer this to the worktop not forgetting to deduct 2/3mm for
ease of fitting. A complicated method but one that
As for the belfast sink cut-out, you should use
a router to ensure a professional finish. The bulk of the cut-out should be made with a circular or jigsaw leaving 5-10mm to
with the router using a guide clamped to the worktop. A capillary groove should be cut to the underside of the
worktop where it overhangs the sink to ensure that water damage doesn’t
Good luck.August 29, 2005 at 7:36 am #6012
thanks for useful
The walls are in fact exposed victorian brick which means they are not even and vary by 5 to 10mm so I will
have to cut as well as I can and then fill with silicone.
Re the belfast sink, I guess the capillary groove on the
underside to be by router – how wide and deep do you think it should be? will a square end bit be ok or should it be rounded?
Re the top, how much overhang from the inside edge of the belfast sink would you recommend especially if using a
capillary groove? ?How far from the edge of the worktop should the
Re the underside of the worktop, I
am thinking of painting with two coats of pva diluted 1 to 3 with water to prevent moisture.
Re top I am going to use
danish oil – 3 coats at first then repeated as necessary.
Re sealing between sink top and worktop bottom and all edges
then white silicone sealant.
does this all make sense? Anything I have missed?
My wife now says she wants
drainage grooves in the worktop top by the sink – How do you do that? Router? but how do you route them with a fall into the
sink? How deep and wide should
the grooves be be?
You wouldnt like to come and do it for me would you?!! (only
Many thanks for the info and I hope this will help others re diy hardwood worktops as I seriously have been
unable to find complete advice in one place anywhere about the fitting of
hardwood worktops using blanks with belfast
sinks etc etc. which is becoming very popular especially with belfast sinks.
rick blakeAugust 29, 2005 at 10:50 am #6013
Rich, you’re a brave man taking on the role of a fabricator
well as a fitter for this project but if you are confident using the tools then good luck and keep us posted. There is no
substitute for trial runs and you should first practice
the methods using your old worktop perhaps.
should be formed with a router, be concave in shape and approximately 5mm x 5mm. The overhang should extend 15mm beyond the
internal edge of the sink and the capillary
groove should end within this area so if made 5-7mm from the edge of the
cut-out this will suffice. The rest of your suggestions seem fine apart from the use of white silicone and
would suggest you use a transparent finish applied as a thin bead that you can neatly smooth with your fingertip.
question of making drainer grooves has popped up before on this forum and a search on the forum using the term “drainer
grooves” will assist with the correct method to use. I
suspect a jig or template board will be the answer.
for me coming out to do it Rich, I would happily assist but alas my days of fitting are now confined to the written word, and
anyway, my fabricating skills would stretch only to
covering up my failure to turn up on time with classics like
“Sorry but the car ran out of juice on the way here and at the same time my mobile phone broke and I couldn’t call
because it was in the middle of nowhere and …………….”
I guess you know the craic.
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