Fitting IKEA beech worktops to Hygena units

Firstly, I must say that I am not a great fan of solid wood worktops

and although aesthetically pleasing, they are not the most resilient of tops to use as a worksurface and require regular maintenace.

Having said that I am aware of their popularity and that in certain designs they are the preferable option.

Natural Wood, by its nature, will undergo movement due to temperature and moisture changes. Because of this, fixing of the tops is different to laminate and movement of the wood has

to be taken into consideration.

Fixings must allow for movement and elongated metal angle brackets are recommended at the rear of cabinets. When fixing the front through the rail of the cabinet, the hole again, must

allow for movement and this is achieved by drilling a larger hole, (approximately 10mm) and using a washer for the screw head to fix to.

Allowance must be made for movement when fitting wood tops to a wall and a 3mm gap is the suggested clearance. Seal with silicone, again to allow movement.

Joints in wood tops do pose a particular problem.
With the movement factor in mind, again I have used silicone as recommended by most manufacturers, but to allow movement in a worktop joint, to me, defeats the object of what you are

ultimately trying to achieve – a flush finish.

The reason for my own preference not to fit wood in an L or U-shaped configuration is borne out of this and having completed perfectly flush joints this way on more than one occasion,

only to return weeks later to a very different picture, I concluded my decision was correct.

I am aware that many installers utilise wood glue to form the joints but as this is not recommended by the manufacturers the guarantee would be in jeopardy if a problem occurs and it

does. (The wood still needs to move)

Particular attention has also to be paid to tha area above dishwasers and this must be protected with a waterproof barrier such as foil.

With regard to your own design you should be aware that MFI cabinets are deeper than most and in fitting a 600mm worktop you may have little overhang from the cabinet front. This will

need compensating for by reducing the cabinet depth to allow 30-40mm from the cabinet front to the front edge of the worktop. Allow the tops to acclimatise to the temperature of the

room they are to be fitted for the time recommended by the manufacturer and apply oil to all surfaces prior to fitting.

It would be interesting to hear the views of other installers who are part of this forum as to how they overcome the issues above but I remain reluctant to fit wood tops in a jointing

configuration.

Like Tim I’ am also not a fan of solid

wood worktops, they are not as hygienic as laminate worktops and they can mark easily (hot pans or scratches are the usual complaints).
However, they do look absolutely stunning, this is my advise: Do not make any mitred joints of any kind, only straight butt joints should be used for solid wood.
Biscuits should be used in between the butt joints, it is imperative to make sure that the fit is neat and flush otherwise you will not get the desired finish.
Having tested the joint fit “dry”, brush on a coat of Cascamite (Urea Formaldehyde Resin Powder, Highly water resistant; – Excellent sanding and gap filling properties; – Very good

for woods that have not been kiln dried; – Clamp time – 12 hours; – Shelf Life – 9 to 12 months), or similar, to both faces Fix the biscuits into one side. Brush Cascamite (after

mixing with water) into the cut-outs (dog bones) made for the jointing bolts, and allow all the adhesive to go off (about 20 minutes). A thin bead of silicone should then be applied

along one edge of the joint, about 6mm from the top, the joint offered up, and made tight with the jointing bolts. Surplus silicone should be wiped off immediately from the top edge

The silicone serves two purposes; 1) It prevents small debris from getting into the joint and 2) If it is necessary to break the joint at some future date the silicone film will make

this easier.

HO! and one other thing, if you call in a plumber to install the sink or taps and he has to cut into the worktop ‘REMEMBER TO TELL THE PLUMBER’ not to just use silicone but seal the

worktop with Cascamite first.
Here is a link to their websitehttp://www.adhesives-tt.com/Consumer/cascamite.htm

Things you should NOT do!

1. Lean a work surface against a wall – not even for five minutes.

2. Put it against a heat source such as a radiator.

3. Leave the top out in the sun or rain – even if it is well wrapped.

4. Butt the top against a wall. Always leave about 3mm – 5mm gap between the wall and the back edge of the worktop

5. Fix without leaving space for movement.

6. Use linseed oil lacquer or polyurethane finishes. They will not stand up to the conditions in a kitchen.

7. Leave any sawn, scribed or machined edge (including joints) or tap hole unsealed.

I hope this helps