whitey
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Hi Tim. Fine site,
thank you.
I’ve a couple of queries that you may be able to answer:
I may need to extend the width of a length of oak worktop in part of the kitchen (alongside an aga), and have bought extra length so I can cannibalise. So, what spacing should I use
for worktop bolts and for biscuits? Also, (after the three coats of oil) should I be using just LM sealant or Cascamite glue? I suppose sash cramps would help, too..?
I intend making end caps to butt up (5mm clearance?) for against the aga from wood along the grain. How wide should these be, and how should they be secured?
I’ve noticed that worktop bolts come in two different sizes: 65 and 150 mm, so I take it that they’re for two distinct purposes… er… what might they be?
I’m tackling one side of the kitchen first – straight runs on either side of the cooker – to get familiar with the tools and materials, before starting on the other side (mitres,
peninsula, butler sink… groan.. 
Thanks again Tim, it was finding your clear explanations and instructions on the web that made me think I could tackle this sort of job on my own.
(My wife has stopped querying the outlay on tools – biscuit jointer, clamps, cramps – and materials, since she’s the one that spent £600 on ebay on the damn wood!!)
Cheers
Andrew
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timfoley
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Whitey,
Welcome to the forum and I hope it will still prove useful in assisting you.
You may have gathered form reading previous posts that I am not the greatest fan of solid wood worktops where the configuration requires that they be jointed on site.
Firstly they require a gap for expansion which isn’t really consistent with the kitchen environment prticularly if your preference is for a painted wall finish in certain areas.
Secondly, because a joint appears too obvious to the eye as the grain meets at opposite angles and finally because the natural movement that occurs through a combination of humidity
and temperature changes, renders that, after making the initial joint, it will in time become uneven and as a result unsightly. If I mention the maintenace required to sustain it’s
appearance then you may understand my apathy but I realise that I may be in a minority here and I am coming purely from a practical perspective.
Controversial I know, and may not win me many friends in the traditional sector but this forum is about opinions as well as advice and I fully respect the difference in others.
Any manufacturer or supplier of these tops will advise the use of low modular silicone when making a joint in solid wood tops as it requires an allowance for movement. Not very
aesthetic and worrying enough to be the reason I would only use it in a stand alone or island configuration.
It is advisable to cut and fit 20mm end caps next to Aga’s, boilers and other hot appliances that run continously or for long periods of time. A minimum 15mm clearance is required
next to a cooker but you should refer to manufacturers guidelines.
Attatch end caps securely with biscuits and a waterproof glue like Cascamite. Remember also to apply end grain sealer to any exposed or cut edges prior to applying sealant or glue.
Worktop bolts are available in two sizes and my only reason for utilising the shorter type would be where a cut out is required close to the joint. In all other cases 150mm bolt is
most suitable. Three bolts evenly spaced with biscuits each side and between,(4), will suffice.
As for your idea in cutting out the drainer grooves, yes it should work but as you say try it first on a spare piece.
Let us know how you go on.
Tips – cut the capillary groove so it is located 10mm over the inner edge of the sink it will then be effective.
Waterproof the underside of the top above washing machines and particularly dishwashers. Strong foil will suffice.
Lay the tops flat in the room prior to installing in order that they acclimatise to the temperature and to avoid warping.
When fixing the top to the cabinets use brackets tha allow movement of the screws.
Good luck and keep us posted,
Tim.
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