idcowden
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hi all,
I am fitting a Hygena kitchen recently delivered (several times) by MFI. Our "design consultant" cheerfully designed the kitchen with a 5cm infill either side of the hob wall unit and a 5cm infill between the appliance tower and a 400mm wall unit.
I have solved the hob infills as MFI helpfully sent an entire spare appliance tower shelf pack so that I could get 4 shelf screws that were missing. I re-used the 60mm back braces from the pack and have rejigged the layout (the corner was so out of true I needed two 55mm infills anyway) to accomodate te extra CM (my corner is formed on a wine rack attached to corner post and blanking panel for the applicance tower.
Anyway, to get to the point, this leaves me with a 55mm x 720mm infilll to make by hand. Even with taping the joint as using a fine point hand saw, I’m getting chipping of the laminate. I borrowed a circular saw which gives me a much better cut, but again, chipping of the laminate.
So the question is, what is the best way to make a chip free infill? Would an 80T blade for the circular saw solve my problems? Am I better off carefully sanding away the hand cut infill so that it is true (will the laminate sand?).
Thanks very much for any help you can give me!
Iain
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timfoley
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Iain,
Mark out and make the cut from the reverse side.
This will prevent chips.
Tim
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idcowden
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Thanks Tim,
The question is, cut with what? The custom fit panels are laminated both sides. If I use a hand saw I get minimal chipping on the top side and lots of chipping on the bottom side. With the power saw I get more chipping on both sides.
So, am I best off sanding to make the hand cut version good, or investing in an 80T blade to re-cut a more perfect infill?
Iain
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timfoley
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You would be fine using a 48 tooth circular blade so long as the visible side is on the reverse.
A downcut jigsaw blade would also suffice and you can cut using this on the face side.
As for hand held saws id I’m not an expert having rarely used tools that don’t have a plug attached. 
Tim
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idcowden
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Thanks Tim,
It’s a double faced board. By hand saw I meant circular saw. Just wasn’t sure how fine the blade should be! (or whether a fine blade would work as the stuff they laminate units with seems to shatter very easily rather than cut).
Iain
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timfoley
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Iain,
Will both edges be visible?
If so then perhaps an 80 tooth blade would be the better option and apply masking tape to the reverse side.
This will not prevent all chipping but will be a substantial improvement to any other on site methods and should be perfectly accepatable provided the board is of good quality. (Did you say Hygena???? – Best of luck)
A perfect finish could be achieved on a scribing table saw but this would mean a visit to a joiners workshop unless you have one installed in the garage.
Again board quality is a determining factor.
Tim
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idcowden
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Hi Tim,
One side will be hidden, so I only need a good cut on either the top or bottom.
I’m going to experiment with the saw tomorrow. Luckily MFI have supplied lots of bits that are not needed (4 screws missing sir? we’ll just send a new flat pack, it’s 2 months quicker than sticking some screws in an envelope…).
Cheers
Iain
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surrey kitchen installer
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Iain,
Let me explain, you have to cut IN TO the face, so if you are using a hand saw, mark the visible (face) side and finish with a your sander. If you are using a circular saw cut from the back side so that the blade cuts up and IN TO the face. Take a look at the blade, the teeth should face upwards at the front so although the work is upside down you still cut IN TO the face side, unless the blade is around the wrong way that is.
Hope this helps
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