scos
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I’ve got a mixer tap to install and it has two 15mm copper pipes that screw
into the bottom of it. The first problem I have is that these pipes start smaller and gradually open out to 15mm meaning that I can’t shorten them until quite far down. This means
that due to their location they will pass directly through the centre support of the sink unit, if I drill holes in that support there will be very little left of it! I can take it
out completely but it looks quite important for the strength of the unit?
Secondly the pipes are very close together and so I think I will have to solder elbows on to them to separate the pipes in order to get the non-return valve (hot tap only) fitted
before attaching to the main feed pipes. Any general advice in this area?
Thanks again, this site has been an absolute god-send for me recently 
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timfoley
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From your description it
seems that the support spans the top of the unit and to retain the strength you can reposition the support so that the top edge only is exposed. In other words turn it around 90
degrees and fix it to the rear of the unit so that it’s edge is flush with the top of the cabinet. This will ensure that the strength of the unit is retained and it no longer affects
installation of your taps.
Copper tails are flexible enough to move apart in order to fit the necassary non return valve your tap requires and this can be achieved after fitting the sink unit to the worktop.
Prior to final connection to your service pipes ensure the tails are tight by twisting into the tap until tight. This is particularly important after moving the tails apart as it
tends to loosen the thread fitting into the tap.
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scos
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Okay, thanks I’ll try that.
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emigrant
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I too got a nasty shock when I unpacked the tap from its box! The
two small diameter pipes, with rubber ‘O’ rings and 10mm nut flats obviously screww into the base of the tap, but do you have to use compression fittings to connect these to the
inlet pipes? If the tap ever needs to be removed in the future (e.g. for replacing a washer), the only way it could be done if capillary (“Yorkshire”) fittings are used would be to
cut the pipes!
It does sem a crazy design – I now wish I had opted for a 2-tap type sink, and reused the old taps, as at least these are (fairly) easily disconnected as usual underneath.
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timfoley
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Compression or
solder fittings can be used to connect the tails to the services.
Removal of the taps isn’t necassary to replace a washer and most modern taps employ the use of ceramic discs to control the tap anyway.
These require little or no maintenance and again all future servicing can be carried out without removal of the taps.
A good tip when installing any plumbing appliance such as sink, washing machine etc is to install isolating valves prior to the final connection or tap.
This way your house services will be unaffected by any work undertaken on your plumbing appliances in the future.
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scos
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Just got it done at the weekend
I had to solder elbow joints on to the tap tails as they were so close I wouldn’t have been able to get any other fitting on there.
Then a used a sort of adaptor to connect the pipe to the flexible tap connector as the connectors have screw sockets that appear to be designed to connect straight into bathroom type
taps.
All seems to be okay now though, after some fiddling around!
The tap connectors have built in shut-off valves – AN ABSOLUTE MUST I’d say, especially seeing as the mains shut off is not working in my house! For the sake of a few quid I can’t
understand why the previous owners hadn’t bothered to fit them.
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