Forums › Kitchen DIY Forum › Kitchen DIY Advice › Raised tiles in corner
This topic has 2 voices, contains 6 replies.
| Author | Posts |
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| Author | Posts |
| July 6, 2004 at 3:13 pm #5442 | |
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JonS |
Hi, I need to make a 90 degree (or slightly less) joint. But the end of the worktop with the female joint butts up against a raised area of tiles in the corner (tiled area runs along side of ‘female worktop’ too, but that isn’t an issue). The tiled area starts half way down the wall, goes down to the skirting board, and extends just beyond the width of the ‘female worktop’. The tiles are raised about 20 mm from the wall on very hard material; it’s difficult to shift even with a chisel, but I suppose it’s do-able. I also need to fit a washing machine under the ‘male worktop’ but the edge of the tiled area is slightly in the way (the w/m would protrude at front of male w/t if side of male w/t is scribed around protruding tile area so as to be butted against wall). The easiest solution would be to put male worktop infront of tiled area, and fill gap between end of tile area and the wall at opposite end of male w/t with a batten + moulding etc. Short of removing all the tiled area that’s in the way of the end of the worktops in the corner, all other solutions make me nervous about the width setting for the jig. Also, since there’s a window board 6″ above male worktop, I can’t lift it at the ‘male end’ in order to scribe other end against wall should I elect to scribe w/t to fit around tiled area and then remove edge of tiled area that’s in the way of w/m underneath. On the off chance that makes any sense…any suggestions? One other complication! The ‘female worktop’ has a sink, and the drainer cut-out means there isn’t enough wood for one of the w/t bolts. I’m thinking of drilling from inside drainer cut out through into male worktop and using a couple of 100 mm 12 gauge chipboard screws . Is that OK? Thanks Jon (Great site btw.) |
| July 6, 2004 at 5:04 pm #5444 | |
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timfoley |
Jon, Welcome to the forum. I have to say it would be a shame to spoil the ship for a ha’peth of tar. As for the sink, providing you can get access to the fixings after jointing the tops, you can achieve success easier with the method you suggest. satisfactory joint has been achieved, remove surplus silicone. 10 guage screws will be sufficient as 12′s may spread the chipboard. |
| July 6, 2004 at 7:00 pm #5446 | |
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JonS |
Thanks for the prompt reply, Tim. Regarding the sink problem; sorry, but I’m not sure whether you’re slightly agreeing with my suggested method or totally disagreeing with it! Could you, (or someone) run that past me again please? Jon |
| July 6, 2004 at 8:08 pm #5448 | |
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timfoley |
Jon, To clarify, I’m advising that you remove the protruding tiled area and as for the method of worktop fixing I’m agreeing with you but suggesting that you use 10 guage in place of 12 guage screws. |
| July 6, 2004 at 9:05 pm #5449 | |
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JonS |
Tim, Yep, I understood about the tiles, and will take your advice. And, ok, thanks for clarifying the other bit. Jon |
| July 7, 2004 at 5:33 pm #5450 | |
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timfoley |
Jon, Not sure that your response leaves you clear on what I’m trying to convey and the reasons for the backbreaking task ahead. For aesthetical purposes it is better to chisel away the obstruction. For practical reasons it is better for the easier installation of the washing machine and finally it will avoid you having to explain the necessity for the raised area to all your house visitors. Jon, Don’t hesitate to post if you need further advice. |
| July 11, 2004 at 3:26 pm #5454 | |
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JonS |
I’ve just seen your last post. Yep, thanks Tim, I did realize the reason. And to be honest having to explain away the worktop poking out was a large part of the reason I did take your advice! After, much sweat I’ve cleared a space in the raised area (it was like iron to chisel away) for the worktops to fit against the wall. Much happier now I did the right thing. Thanks again Tim Jon |
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