Forums › Kitchen DIY Forum › Kitchen DIY Advice › Wall cabinets and flooring questions
This topic has 3 voices, contains 4 replies.
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| Author | Posts |
| December 20, 2005 at 8:40 pm #6176 | |
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davide |
This website is certainly the most helpful resource I’ve found so far in my extensive web searching – some credit where it is due by way of introducing my first post. Now down to the reason for the post – a couple of questions. 1. I am in the process of hanging kitchen wall cabinets from a well-known DIY retailer. Having followed their instructions on the positioning of the wall support brackets relative to the intended top position of the cabinet, I am somewhat alarmed by how far out the cabinet is when it is first offered up to the wall. At first hanging, the cabinet sits some 2 cm low, despite the fixings being bang-on accurate on the wall, within 0.5mm. What is the typical adjustment range that these height-adjusters are designed to offer? Is it normal to find the cabinet this far out and to have to adjust it this much to raise the cabinet to the correct wall height? As an aside, I have tried to adjust the height using the adjusters and have got most of the way there, but the screws seem very hard to turn. I never know whether that is ‘just how it is’, or whether I am approaching the limit of the adjustment offered by the adjuster. I am still a couple of mm low and the adjuster is now so stiff I am struggling to be able to turn the adjuster screws. It doesn’t help that the only screwdriver that fits (based on screw head size) is shorter than the depth of the cabinet and hence awkward to grip – I can’t get enough purchase and the adjustment now needs some considerable force. Are these adjusters usually very stiff to adjust? 2. If you are starting with a bare room, newly chipboard-floored, as mine is, does the flooring (finished) have to go down first, or can flooring be added later? We haven’t decided whether to go for laminate flooring, or even something like a wood effect flooring made of a lino-type material (both options clearly have very differing thicknesses). Partly because of not knowing what colour or flooring type will look best until the kitchen is fitted. I’m assuming it is OK to fit the kitchen first, then add flooring later and run it under the cabinets. Since the height of the feet of the base cabinets have to be initially set to the depth of the intended plinth (at this point the cabinet is sat on just the chipboard flooring), fitting a deeper floor covering later, like laminate, will necessitate reducing the height of the plinth to make it fit – is this OK or entirely frowned upon? Thanks in anticipation of some comments. |
| December 21, 2005 at 9:38 am #6177 | |
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jono |
Davide Hope I can assist…. 1. Wall cabinets usually are designed so that the ‘claw’ adjuster is horizontal (in middle of travel) to give correct height positioning. Check that the claw is actually engaged on the wall bracket. I once had a similar problem only to discover that the top of the cabinet was sitting on the wall bracket!!!! 2. It is not a good idea to cut plinths. add that to the plinth height and set the base cabinst to allow for it. Jon |
| December 21, 2005 at 10:24 am #6178 | |
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davide |
OK…thanks Jon for the info. Do you know what is inside one of these height adjuster things? Some kind of opposing-wedge affair I’m assuming? I think mine are sloping down considerably (not horizontal) at this point, when the cabinet is almost level, suggesting the initial measurements for positioning the brackets given in the installation leaflet is wrong. The one potential saving grace is that having never done a kitchen before, I’ve only drilled the holes for that one cabinet so far, so I’ve got chance to position the other brackets for the other cabinets at a different height. I’m not sure we can avoid trimming the plinths as we would have to decide now on the flooring material. Another question: I have a full-height larder cabinet, and across the two-metres or so of its end panel vertical span there is some considerable variation in wall contour – maybe a gap of about 5mm at the worst point whilst at one point the end panel is snug up to the wall. I noticed in Tim’s installation guide you are supposed to use a compass to scribe the wall profile onto the cabinet end panel and then cut it to match, thus eliminating any gaps when re-offering it up to the wall. My end panels are colour-matched laminate – won’t this splinter off if I try to plane the back edge or cut it in any way? |
| December 21, 2005 at 10:33 am #6179 | |
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jono |
David 1. I suggest that witht he wall cabinets you set the ‘claw’ level and then remeasure the distance to the top of the cabinet. Use this as you setting out dimension. 2. Why not make an allowance for flooring. Tiles and wooden flooring are about the same thickness. And if you go foe vinyl you can always overlay the chipboard to make up the difference. 3. Are you going to tile the wall or paint? Personally I would fill the gap with builders chaulking and paint to match the wall. 5mm is nothing. Jon |
| December 22, 2005 at 2:22 pm #6181 | |
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timfoley |
First of all, Thanks Jono for your contribution on this post. Davide, I agree with Jono’s advice here and a 5mm gap is acceptable enough not to scribe back to the wall. and as it is paintable, the cabinet to wall space will be not be visible. allowance for depth of the flooring and fit after floor finish installation. Fit flooring up to the feet of the cabinets and inside any freestanding appliance apertures. to a mid-adjustment level and to then measure down from the top of the cupboard to the bracket holes. Transfer this measurement, which will remain consisitent for all your cupboards, to the wall. and horizontal heights will make the job easier. hanger locates on to the bracket. Good Luck Tim. |
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